In the three years since designer Hedi Slimane took the reigns, sales revenue for iconic label Saint Laurent has more than doubled with European luxury e-tailer MyTheresa.com stating in Business of Fashion, “The rise of our business with Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent can only be described as meteoric”. The secret to Slimane’s success is in the creation of lines that are less focused on establishing a particular mood and message, and more on actual product. The Saint Laurent of today appeals to a much wider demographic with glamorous and edgy designs to take 21stcentury women from street to ballroom. It is his dynamic range and accessibility, not just the infamous YSL monogramme, that has made Saint Laurent a prominent feature in fashion editorials such as Marie Claire and L’Officiel. Slimane’s approach to ready-to-wear takes a relaxed ethos towards basic items such as tailored jackets, blazers, bombers and ponchos that are quite rare in the luxury market. Saint Laurent Paris’ ready-to-wear shows project the sense of modernity and now-ness that are evident in his collections every season by utilising music-scene misfits to enhance the musical subculture that heavily influences his designs. In Pre-AW15, the classic Saint Laurent noir gaberdine blazer features two buttons and is a favourite of Emmanuelle Alt editor of French Voguea, for its statement simplicity and contemporary glam look. For a more classical option there is the Saint Laurent sable blazer with white piping in noir/blanc, that can be paired with the Saint Laurent mid-waist tube trousers for a statement Saint Laurent Le Smoking look, as portrayed by Angelina Jolie. No stranger to psych-rock inspired patterns, Slimane again incorporates youthfully glamorous designs into his fitted shirts demonstrating his intention for continuity and unity between his collections. The fitted long sleeve crepe viscose shirts this season feature a confetti star print in noir/off white, or a baby cat print in noir. The fashionably unique shirts can be paired with a Saint Laurent blazer and trousers to create a punk rock look with an element of sophistication as styled by Cara Delevigne, Kate Moss and Giovanna Bataglia. Slimane also emphasises his L.A grunge influences through the presence of oversized long-sleeved shirts, also featuring the signature baby cat in beige/noir or confetti star print in noir/off-white. A favourite of Vogue Paris editor Carine Roitfield, the Saint Laurent oversized shirts are a staple wardrobe piece for effortlessly glamorous dressing this season. The ponchos, however, are a standout of the collection, with the Saint Laurent knitted Shetland cashmere styles featuring stunning star embroidery and coming in colour waves of gris/noir or noir. The Saint Laurent ponchos are psych-rock-meets-bohemian inspired statement pieces that empower, appreciate and embody the 21st century woman.
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