NEW YORK 

PROENZA SCHOULER The first show for this fashion season was Proenza Schouler. Held in New York at the Whitney Museum, this season’s collection is influenced by Abstract Expressionist painter Helen Frankenthaler and minimalist sculptor Robert Morris. The inspiration is clear in off-the-shoulder knit dresses, sculptured tweed jackets and knit tops and skirts that had been ‘slashed’ to give the impression of a black paint roller.   VICTORIA BECKHAM For her Autumn/Winter 15 collection, Victoria Beckham returns to her aesthetic roots,  re-visiting her beautiful dress silhouettes. The result is more of the same but in the best possible way. Chic knit dresses in hour-glass silhouettes, skirts with asymmetrical hems and an earthy colour palette demonstrates the development and progress that VB as a collection has experienced since she launched in 2008. MILAN

MSGM

This season MSGM took a new direction with a distinct lack of prints coming down the runway. Instead Massimo Giorgetti chose to base his Winter collection around bright colours - electric pinks, orange, yellow and blue all featured on mini-dresses, tailored coats and contrasting fur jackets.

PARIS  BALMAIN Paris fashion week started on a high at Balmain. Olivier Rousing has taken the French fashion house to new heights in the past two years and his Autumn/Winter collection looks to be a hit with his Balmain Army. Inspired by Loulou de la Falaise and Paris in the 70’s, the colours of the season can only be described as electric. Knit mini skirts with matching floor-length cardigans, alongside colour-blocked beaded mini-dresses. The show’s star-studded guest list was the only distraction to this amazing collection.   ISABEL MARANT Held at the Palais Du Tokyo, Isabel Marant’s Winter collection heralds the return of high-waisted jeans. Marant sent her models down the runway in variations of printed and plain high waisted jeans, shorts and skirts paired back with cropped nautical knitwear and her traditional silk peasant blouses. Indeed, Marant herself took her bow in a pair – a sure sign that next season is going to be all Isabel Marant's high-waisted jeans.   BALENCIAGA Described as his first collection to truly reflect Cristobal Balenciaga, Alexander Wang’s Balenciaga AW15 runway show was inspired by Crisotbal’s original clientele, “the society women, the aristocrats, the regal women”. Opulent fabrics, cocoon shapes, bubble skirts and textured jacquard fabric reflects this old world inspiration while metal staple detailing, wire rings and razor blades prove that Wang’s Balenciaga clients want their “opulence served up with a little subversion”. JUNYA WATANABE Also held at the Palais du Tokyo, the Junya Watanabe AW15 collection is inspired by Watanabe’s desire to explore “dimensionality through clothing”. The result; a mathematically inspired collection that features geometric honeycomb garments and headpieces and models scrawled with mathematical equations. One of my favourite collections from Junya to date! COMME DES GARCONS COMME DES GARCONS  The Comme Comme presentation is held in CDG headquarters in Place Vendome. Each season a select few buyers from around the world are invited to view Rei Kawakubo’s latest ‘secondary’ collection. This season bell-shaped overcoats featured in polka dot and leopard prints and Comme’s iconic schoolgirl walked the runway in pinafore dresses, voluminous skirts, floral jacquard pants and embroidered polka dot shirting. KENZO The Kenzo show was an experience in itself. The models walked between six separate moving columns on wheels that featured holographic images – a spectacle to say the least. The Kenzo collection itself is a refreshing change from past seasons' over-embellishment – we in particular love the printed floral jacquard story and animal print knitwear that are layered underneath this season’s signature ponchos. CELINE In the eyes of the fashion world, Phoebe Philo can do no wrong. This season was no different. Philo took us on an autobiographical journey with her AW15 Celine RTW collection. “The best part of the job is finding out more about myself…Dressed-up-ness. I was never in the headspace to approach it before. I find glamour and sexuality awkward”. Graphic otter, fox and hare prints feature on silk shirting and dresses and suggest Philo’s new-found playfulness, whereas the tailoring and exposed stitching on shirts and pants confirms that Philo was embracing her version of “dressed up”. CHLOE Fleetwood Mac’s Rumours was the soundtrack of choice at the Chloe AW15 Show and this season’s Chloe girl belonged in Laurel Canyon in the 70’s. Folksy floor-length silk gowns, patchwork poncho knits, a tailored jumpsuit  and black velvet evening dress conveyed to the audience Claire Waight Keller’s intentions, “I really wanted to capture something confident, but still with a carefree spirit. I can only described the Chloe girls as a ‘gentlewoman’, wearing guardsman’s coats and gentlemen’s clothing, but still with the flou and lingerie lace. There is something clean and narrow about her silhouette, but still with a fluidity to it”. STELLA MCCARTNEY This season Stella McCartney seeks to offer structured silhouettes that unravel to suggest something more fluid and as usually is the case, Stella has got it right. McCartney’s winter offering is characteristically no-fuss; the epitome of the brand’s aesthetic. Easy printed silk pants, signature tailored long jackets, daisy and paisley printed silk separates and jacquard paisley tops and skirts featured on the runway but our stand-out this season are the velvet ankle boots. SAINT LAURENT Hedi Slimane is the darling of the rock and roll music world and his collection appeals directly to this audience. While some may say this is limiting, Slimane’s collection continues to sell-out worldwide and his AW15 runway show displayed how Slimane can offer the classic YSL signature suiting within his preferred punk-rock aesthetic. VALENTINO Although most talked about after the Valentino show was the cameo appearances by Ben Stiller as Derek Zoolander and Owen Wilson as Hansel, the real showstopper this season is the collection itself. This season Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have been inspired by female artists Emilie Floge and Celia Birtwell. Floge, who was a couturier herself, inspired the A-line silhouettes and gold-leaf angel wing effects, whereas Birtwell’s stamp will be seen on many of the prints, in particular the striking dragon motif.   Stay tuned for our showroom blog to be posted next week.
Share: Facebook / Twitter / Pinterest