We find what Demna Gvasalia is doing in the face of fashion to be rather inspiring. Instead of having a runway show for Vetements, Demna and his design team explored his new hometown of Zurich and asked people if they’d like to be photographed in the new collection, picking their own edit of what they’d like to wear in their portraits with all images photographed by Demna himself. The concept in typical Vetements fashion pokes fun at predictable conventions of fashion.
Now to the showroom appointment and collection! Familiar shapes, colours and prints will be the same but optimised – cue, fun little emoji prints. Hoodies, casual-wear and a bit of logo-mania will return to Parlour X with styles such as the ‘Staff’ tee shirting and a new tailored trench coat with Vetements branding. The same silhouette of the statement making ‘floral dress’ Parlour X put their stamp on in Vetements early days will be reissued in a new Hawaiian print and colour way – something to get your hands on come next season.
The Sacai range features experimental shapes, materials and prints with a Japanese aesthetic that works for multi-dimensional wear. For Resort 18, textural layering and graphic prints are strong. We approach the brand with essential tee shirting in many quirky shapes which can be worn for numerous events – think AM to PM, as well as style back with any of your existing pants or skirts. In addition to the fact that the brand really adds an ‘edge’ to your look (thanks to the multi-dimensional aspect to each piece), the pricing is fantastic.
Highlights of the Resort 18 collection include a ‘modern flapper’ drop waist dress and a casual hoodie with a striped shirting. The hoodie is Director & Buyer, Eva Galambos’ favourite piece of the collection. The PX ideology of this brand is about wearing Sacai with any outfit you put together, on any given day. It always works, time and time again. Fail-proof.
A favourite dressmaker of fashion insiders and for Parlour X clients alike; Olga Vilshenko learnt the art of dressmaking from her mother before receiving formal training in her home-country of Russia, then employing folkloric embroideries with Western techniques. The quality of the brand is impressive.
The offering for Resort 18 took a different approach, taking inspiration from artist Michelle Morin whose paintings are better known for the beauty of nature, land and sea. While the brand still has the overall same aesthetic and feel, this collection felt like a departure. Prints, motifs and embroideries had the inclusion of red, when normally prints are black-based. This was a nice touch. We ordered pretty dresses with mid-sleeves which complimentary to the female form. Among the new styles; the ‘Dylan’ bomber jacket as a refreshing addition and one of the best I’ve seen in years in terms of quality. Signature British dresses will return with that folkloric sensibility, which will please our Vilshenko clients.
Proenza Schouler is going from strength to strength, as such we are very proud of their first Paris show. The buying team relished the Resort 18 collection; we felt a real ‘atelier’ moment from the designer duo.
What do we love about Proenza Schouler? We want to wear it. It’s not a brand that sits in your wardrobe to covet. You feel empowered wearing this brand and there is an elegance and sophistication which coincides with wearability that moved Parlour X to buy deeply. You will find classic stripes in easy silhouettes and jersey fabrics and styles that are classic but with a twist from tops to dresses. A new sexy skirt silhouette with thigh-high split will feel sophisticated but sexy at the same. This Resort 18 collection definitely delivered!
Saint Laurent's house in Marrakech
The brand went to Morocco with an ethnic inspired collection featuring mirrored talismans. Anthony Vaccarello as new Creative Director is still reimagining the Saint Laurent woman, with respect to the YSL history but with a unique approach to his predecessors. The continuation of Saint Laurent monogramme bags and accessories will be a strong suit, as products have always supported the RTW collection. For Parlour X, as this works so well this will be a focus for the upcoming Resort 18 collection.