Kicking off Fashion Month, Proenza Schouler presented their SS17 collection in New York to rave reviews. Unlike previous season’s offerings, the Proenza Summer collection exploded with colour, texture and vibrancy.
Lazaro and Hernandez spent time in defunct Paris couture houses atelier’s learning traditional and highly technical skills that display themselves throughout the collection, for example one of the standout runway pieces is a skirt and bolero style top set that is created entirely out of strips of ostrich feathers stitched together.
The collection is bright, fun and full of the Proenza Schouler boys’ atypical vision for the future of fashion.
MOTHER OF PEARL
Every season Mother of Pearl’s Creative Director Amy Powney draws inspiration from unexpected and unusual sources. This season she references a 1989 film anthology entitled New York Stories that featured short films from iconic directors including Francis Ford Coppola, Martin Scorcese and Woody Allen.
Powney took from this anthology inspiration in the form of each films’ leading female characters; Allen’s maternal “blue-rinse” grandmother, Scorcese’s sex bomb and Coppola’s young girl dressing up in her mother’s finery. From this inspiration Powney presented a collection that combines all elements from her inspiration; oversized silhouettes that reflect the idea of dressing up, florals and tweed and pearls showcasing the East-side grandmother and the sex bomb are presented in the low-cut and mini silhouettes that are layered throughout the collection.
With our first delivery of Fendi in-store this month, we waited with excitement for the SS17 collection. This collection follows the awe-inspiring couture collection that was held at the Trevi Fountain back in May. With Karl Lagerfeld (who has been with Fendi for over 50 years) and Silvia Venturini Fendi as Creative Directors, Fendi’s collections will always have strong roots in both the history of Fendi but also the history of fashion itself.
This season’s inspiration is French Queen Marie Antoinette. Opulent and baroque fabrications feature heavily throughout the collection. Silhouettes tell the story of Marie Antoinette’s time spent between the Petite Trianon – ribbon-tied aprons and silk organza blouses – and Versailles – a full length full skirt in a floral boudoir jacquard.
The MSGM SS17 collection conveys the brand’s key aesthetic; bright, fun and youthful. Creative Director Massimo Giorgetti hit on two major trends in his latest runway collection with the incorporation of athleisure and girly ruffles.
Colours are bold and bright and fabrics are technical and prints are present in each look. Our favourite includes a beautiful paisley print on silk and a colourful Brazilian-inspired floral print that peeks from under hemlines
The house of Emilio Pucci has experienced a resurgence into the present fashion consciousness with the appointment of MSGM’s Massimo Giorgetti as Creative Director a year ago. Since his appointment and first collection Giorgetti has breathed new life into Pucci. Giorgetti who has a design ethos that always looks to the future, manages to incorporate the past and Pucci’s iconic archive prints into 21st century silhouettes.
This season Giorgetti takes two archive prints and twists them to create something entirely new while still representing the classic Pucci prints. In particular, he takes a labyrinth print and maximizes it and a black and white zebra print that is abstracted. There is also a massive amount of bright colours interspersed throughout the collection and many looks are block-coloured, which is somewhat of a departure for the traditionally print-heavy Pucci.
Kicking off Paris Fashion Week, one of fashion’s most talked about ingénues Simon Porte Jacquemus presented his namesake collection Jacquemus to much acclaim. With his roots in the South of France, Jacquemus brings to fashion a sense of innocence and naiveté that maintains it’s cool-girl aesthetic.
The collection is a continuation of the Resort 17 offering, with many pieces in the runway collection taken directly from the Resort showings. In incorporating these pieces into the collection, Jacquemus intends for the audience to see his collection as a constant flowing thing, as opposed to singular or seasonal.
Silhouettes are characteristically Jacquemus; high waist wide leg pin-stripe pants, oversized shoulder pads and off the shoulder tops and dresses dominate the collection.
Acne Studios’ Creative Director Jonny Johansson is not known for making political statements however with the current refugee situation and world-wide political unrest, Johansson chose to use his SS17 collection to explore and be inspired by the immense textile traditions of the homelands of displaced peoples.
In particular, geometric prints and patterns from many of the Arabic nations, including war-torn Syria, feature heavily throughout the collection on beautifully draped scarves, kaftan-style dresses and oversized slouchy pants.
The collection is somewhat of a departure for Acne Studios with the underlying theme being distinctly feminine and with a softness not usually seen in Acne. The departure brings much acclaim and the show itself was one of our favourites of the season.
The Celine SS17 runway show was once again held in the Tennis Club de Paris and was met with both critical acclaim and fan adoration, as usual. This season Creative Director Phoebe Philo continues her design manifesto of creating elegant, fashion-forward everyday clothing that woman want to wear. The models walked through a glass S-shaped installation created by artist Dan Graham. Philo said after the show “I wanted to see it cast through the kaleidoscope of Dan’s installation. The fact that people can see themselves and the clothes makes for more complex reflections”
The collection itself is a perfect representation of Philo’s non-conformist attitude towards fashion, especially with her use of colour. Mixing colours like magenta and mint with a pale lemon yellow, one would assume the result would be overwhelming and clashing however under Philo’s careful and thoughtful design eye the result is feminine, sleek and sophisticated.
The show bags and shoes are often the most coveted of the season, and this season Philo sent flat sneakers down the runway, paired with the ultimate in chic understated luxury - a leather frame bag with no obvious logos or design features. Classic, chic Celine.
Always one of the most awaited shows of the season, Isabel Marant’s SS17 Runway show did not disappoint. Opening with It model Gigi Hadid, the collection sought to convey the idea of “everyday femininity”.
Isabel Marant is the queen of cool French girl dressing and this season she sent down the runway a combo of sporty, signature bohemian silhouettes and patterns all displayed on every IT model in the business, including Doutzen Kroes, Arizona Muse, and Edie Campbell.
We love the floral and paisley prints and the shoes are a definite hit with delicate ruffled sandals, silver leather wrap sandals and fantastic high heels that will be on everybody’s Summer wish list.
Before launching into the creation of his SS17 collection, Junya Watanabe immersed himself in the underground and alternative culture of Berlin, focusing on subcultures including the punk, Goth, skater, biker and neo-hippy scene. Mixing everything he took from his experiences in Berlin and combining it with his exploration in design with the origami techniques from AW16, the combination of the two make a stronger collection “neither extreme construction nor streetwear stand alone stylistically. They are complementary and when merged together, become stronger”.
Underneath the oversized origami-esque black overlays the models strode down the runway to Nine Inch Nails wearing slogan tee’s, floral skirts and baby-doll dresses and Junya’s classic denim jeans and jean skirts.
The Chloé girl is constantly evolving and changing under the ever-watchful eye of Creative Director Claire Waight Keller, and this season she went from a country-cross motorcycle enthusiast to an urban, city girl, “I wanted to bring it back to the city. It was time to clean it up…I’ve been looking at the essence of French style, the women on the metro, and in daily life. And I wanted to bring that same easy simplicity and relevance into the collection”.
Keller focuses on classic French colours like white, cream and navy, however there are Chloe “foundation colours” used in the flowery finale prints in powdery blues and browns.
Our favourite looks from the collection include a one shoulder floral printed top and skirt that are classic Chloe bohemian chic and a show-stopping ribbed knit floor length dress that will be on everybody’s must have list for Summer.
As the new wunderkind of the fashion world, Demna Gvasalia debuted his second runway collection for Balenciaga to a worldwide audience. With a background soundtrack of 90’s power ballads’ including Chris Issak’s “Wicked Game” and Whitney Houston’s “I Will Always Love You”, models stormed down the runway in a rush of colour, exaggerated silhouettes and excessive jewellery.
Gvasalia provided a note detailing his ideas behind his inspiration for his SS17 show, “an exploration of the intimate relationship between couture and fetishism runs beneath the surface of the Balenciaga Spring Summer 17 show…This collection takes a theoretical leap, harnessing the possibilities of Spandex, a stretch fabric invented in 1958, a time which coincided with Mr Balenciaga’s development of silk organza Gazar to mould to his couture purposes. To service the fantasies of the modern Balenciaga woman, she now appears encased in Spandex from stiletto-tip to hip”
At first glance the spandex elements of the collection seemed crazy and a throw-back to the 70’s. However as each piece continued to walk down the runway, you could see how Gvasalia was able to incorporate the crazier design elements with more commercial silhouettes and pieces.
A special touch in the collection are the jewelled brooches that feature on many garments from the archives, directly from Cristobal Balenciaga’s own collection.
Chitose Abe’s SS17 collection is an ode to the “game changers” of history – figures like Jimi Hendrix, Kurt Cobain, Pablo Picasso and Jane Birkin. In channeling these figures, Abe seeks to “to take things from their style and to put them all together, as one”.
This inspiration was evident throughout the show; a white bandleader jacket that would look at home on The Beatles, a leopard print jacket that wouldn’t look out of place on Kurt Cobain and a slouchy pyjama style set that has Jane Birkin written all over it.
One of our favourite pieces from the shoe is a slogan t-shirt that takes Joe Strummer’s quote “Passion is a fashion” and flips it on its head to instead say “Fashion is a Passion”. The epitome of Sacai.
With the departure of Maris Gazia Chiuri last season, there was a certain anxiety in the air before the Valentino show. People were not sure what to expect from Pierpaolo Piccioli’s first solo collection. After the first model walked down the runway in the sunny salon in the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, all doubts were washed away and the beauty of Piccioli’s first collection was able to shine through.
This summer collection is inspired by Hieronymus Bosch’s triptych, The Garden of Earthly Delights and the work of 70’s British fashion designers Zandra Rhodes and her hand-drawn prints. The result is a collection of delicately feminine pieces in a colour palette that embraces deep shades of red, pink, magenta and blush.
To finish off Paris Fashion Week for SS17, Anthony Vaccarello debuted his first collection for Saint Laurent since the departure of Hedi Slimane last season. Held in the new Saint Laurent headquarters, Vaccarrello sent 45 models down the runway in his debut collection based around a 1982 Yves Saint Laurent leopard print dress with balloon sleeve.
Vaccarello takes this dress and reinterprets it in ten different ways “variations on a theme; one dress, one woman, one story”. These variations include a dress in leather, a retooled jacket, a transparent blouse with the balloon sleeve, micro mini skirts and tapestry covered bomber jackets. While many of the house classics were missing – the Trenchcoats, the Smoking Jackets, the Baby Doll silhouette – the collection still has the core elements of Saint Laurent.
The stand-out of the show are a pair of patent leather point toe pumps with the iconic YSL logo as a heel. A must on every fashion lover’s list for next season.