Jacquemus SS16 is best described as a surreal symbolic dream with asymmetries and diagonals at the forefront. French designer Simon Porte Jacquemus named this oddly trancelike and at times unsettling collection Le Nez Rouge, as he had been sick and afflicted with a red nose while designing it. “You know, my collections are normally about the South of France and the beach and happy things? Well, now the Jacquemus girl is not smiling,” he said (Vogue.com), without revealing the catalyst behind the emotional vulnerability. The abstract designer, who recently won an LVMH Prize in its young designer competition, is trying to make his way in the hard world of fashion commerce, bringing a refreshing element of feeling back into design. Easing into the collection is the Jacquemus Straight Maxi Skirt in navy, which exudes an elongating elegance. The stunning skirt has a high-waist, extended side pocket and deep back split to allow for movement making the functional piece a perfect wardrobe staple for the spring/summer season. The maxi skirt can be paired with the Jacquemus Turtleneck Knit Sweater in navy or red featuring extra long sleeves and high splits on the side, which can be knotted in the front or worn loose. The chic outfit reflects the designer’s youthful mindset, blending high-fashion sophistication with street-style effortlessness, as well as catering to a global market with its non-seasonal specific styles. Accurately reflecting the abstract symmetry that dominated the collection is the Jacquemus long-sleeve shirt-dress in white. The unique piece features a navy and white pinstripe twill skirt layer across the bottom hem, which is accentuated by a separate red scarf, which can be incorporated as a front tie. The crafty, stick-on embellishments demonstrate Jacquemus’ childlike artistry, which translates into a show stopping modern look. Alternatively, the shirt-dress can also be worn in a mini-skirt form, with the navy pinstripe twill layering becoming its own piece in the Jacquemus Shirting Mini Skirt in white. Featuring a white cotton poplin base, the skirt has a zipper back and asymmetrical hemline and is the perfect weekend go-to. The mini-skirt can be paired with the Jacquemus off-the-shoulder shirt in white/navy featuring an elasticised ribbed knit navy neckline layer, long sleeves and exaggerated French cuffs reminding audiences of Jacquemus’ passion for his heritage and the continuing French influence on his random layering and abstract themes. Lastly, there is the Jacquemus long-sleeved collared white-shirt dress with a red panel across the front and back. The statement piece caters to every occasion and represents the twenty-first century woman by exuding a relaxed, man-style effortlessness.
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