BALENCIAGA “At Balenciaga, wearing the clothes inspires new clothes. That’s the way we work here,” Creative Director, Demna Gvasalia explained at the beginning of the show. This season, Balenciaga captured ‘modern sophistication’ with an ease and nonchalance – something that Demna’s Balenciaga has become prolific for (not only for the house, but also for his individual label, Vetements). The AW17 runway is considered one of the shows of the week. It commenced with models clutching their voluminous coats, with side swept button fastenings on all outwear from puffer jackets to duffel coats. Demna says “I went through almost 30 years of photographs of Cristóbal’s look books, and in many of them the models were clutching their coats like this.” From the front row, we saw beautifully constructed leather separates paired with lush knits and interesting draped shirting. Shirting has been a big category for Parlour X in the past season. What we like to call ‘pulled-together chic’, was interpreted through pencil skirts and trademark printed dresses. More icons of the new Balenciaga: thigh-high spandex-stocking boots and oversized Bazar shoppers to accompany each look. What made the most impact however, were nine stunning Balenciaga couture dresses in honour of Balenciaga’s 100th anniversary. These looks also greeted us in the showroom in spectacular form. According to Demna Gvasalia, he reinterpreted what he saw in the archive photos of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s incredible signature designs of the 1950s. From the physical runway to the showroom, the Balenciaga logo was abundant – subtly on the backs of shirts or imprinted on a fabulous pencil skirt. We couldn’t resist – for AW17 you’ll be shopping a metallic silver edit of sandals and boots. For the woman who appreciates comfort and style, the new ‘Speed’ trainers in block colours will become your new go-to. At Parlour X, you’ll also discover draped fabric ‘Knife’ stilettos in a chain/floral print – high on our must have list. A sophisticated scarf select in this chain print will be an effortless addition for the Parlour X woman, and the ‘chain’ link print will be carried throughout our RTW offering. The oversized Balenciaga shoppers in all colours and sizes as seen on the runway, from spots to stripes, are here to stay. Also, new: Parlour X will be including a range of shearling and leather logo clutches in black and white, appropriate for any occasion. From accessories to RTW, the Balenciaga collection was a cohesive assembly of modern day cool and elegance. Build your dream wardrobe with Balenciaga. SAINT LAURENT Creative Director, Anthony Vaccarello chose to show in the Saint Laurent HQ on Rue de Bellechasse in an enormous amphitheatre with tiered stadium seating. The soundtrack was club music, the louder the better! The young Italian-Belgian designer has made a point of celebrating beauty and sexuality while putting his stamp on the house while striving to stay true to himself. accarello has said “I always relate YSL to parties, to evening,”. His idea for the AW17 season, to combine the everyday with a romanticism, and a bit of toughness. This was portrayed through extravagant pleating, small and large varying proportions and ruching. The Parlour X edit wouldn’t be complete without the short, black mini dress and classic Saint Laurent shapes from RTW to monogrammed luxury goods, such as messenger bags, logo heels and clutches. We’ll also subscribing a divine patent leather pump for good measure. CELINE When it comes to a Céline show, the models walk with such fast-pace it becomes vital to capture each look, with eyes on the runway at all times! To begin the show, the final line-up of backstage models was visible to guests, behind a backlit screen, their shadows and shapes taking form with final touches being finessed before the show commences. As the first model entered the stage, and with each exit that followed – models were crossing in a circular walk from all angles; it was impossible to look away. The immediate design signature of Céline was immediate, represented with oversized shirting, some with large lapels or styled over culottes or trousers. Coats – some in silk, some heavier with exaggerated shoulders, beautiful two-piece suits, intricately printed shirt dresses and models holding large, scarves or throws were shown throughout the runway. Following this spectacular show, we entered the familiar Céline showroom to view our favourite RTW looks up close. For the Parlour X client, this season we will explore many of the beautiful separates, shirting and printed dresses. The inner workings of a Céline piece – whether it’s a soft silk shirt or exquisitely constructed tailored pant, is always finished with the highest quality finishing. Our faithful Céline clients will be pleased to note that the Belt Bag will return, this time in bold hues. Another classic to expect is the Box Bag in gorgeous pastels. New to Parlour X will be a tapestry woven fabric which we anticipate will become a cult-hit, available in the classic Trio, Belt Bag and Twisted Cabas. For Céline loyalists, the upcoming AW17 delivery including cult-style signatures and fresh, novel designs has an extraordinary and distinctive magnetism one comes to expect, from the most sought after label in the world. COMME DES GARÇONS The pioneering Japanese label headed by Rei Kawakubo has undoubtedly changed women’s fashion with her radical label. Hot off the thematic Met Gala show in New York, which represented 140 examples of Kawakubo’s womenswear for Comme des Garçons dating from the early 1980s to her most recent work, we were eager to step inside the world of Comme des Garçon once again. For AW17 season, the fall show was all about ‘the future of silhouette’. One can always expect dramatic, exaggerated shapes, and as WWD puts it “candy for the eye, food for the fashion brain.” According to Rei Kawakubo, the silhouettes of the future will be made from fabrics both humble and fancy. While abstract design isn’t new in the universe of Kawakubo and the show silhouettes were complex, for the Parlour X client, we refined this into wearable separates from cloth, elastic-waist skirts with lacework detailing and easy silk print tops. JUNYA WATANABE Junya Watanabe has always had youth culture in his DNA, essential to the brand. This is what resonates most for me, a steadfast fan of Junya and Comme des Garçon. Ahead of the show, unexpectedly, a personal email was shared with his show guests (media and buyers) explaining his first collection was made from flea-market fabrics like men’s tweed coats and sofa fabric. Given this background, it was clear to see the label’s choice to revisit this potent recollection from those formative experimental years. As part of the recollection, Junya Watanabe re-worked some of these unconventional fabrics into the collection, but with a modern spin. The collection was a combination of punk signatures and geometric features; pleating, draping, tartan, brocade and Lurex across sweaters, skirts, trench coats and biker jackets – much of what you’ll find at Parlour X for AW17. As Vogue put it: “all the above were the epitome of the kind of things Junya Watanabe fans crave to find in stores, whatever the season.” -- and we have it this season, at Parlour X. Watch this space. GALVAN A desire for a new kind of evening wear – modern, clean, cool – lies at the hear of Galvan. The London-based label is established by four young women from the worlds of fashion and contemporary art; Anna-Christin Haas, Sola Harrison, Carolyn Hodler and Katherine Holmgren launched the brand in 2014, to reflect their shared longing for a cosmopolitan approach; luxurious and effortless whilst versatile enough to be styled different and worn repeatedly. For AW17, wait to be enchanted by an offering velvet gowns and jumpsuit! The collection combines sleek lines in sophisticated fabrics and is combined with effortless tailoring. Exclusive to Australian clientele through Parlour X boutique and parlourx.com, this is evening wear as the modern woman would want it. Glamour in a simplistic way. SACAI Chitose Abe honed her skills working for Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe of Comme des Garçons for ten years, before starting Sacai in 1998. This season was all about the intricacies and manipulation of fabric, a technique we have come to admire from the label. Fashion met functionality through a continuation of experimental shapes, materials and prints across embroidered parkas, zippers on tweed, lace with pleating and treated denim. Each garment is reworked and multi-dimensional. Direct from Paris, Parlour X will continue to focus on what have become firm favourites; ‘front and back’ diverse tops and knitwear, outerwear and skirts with unexpected, utilitarian detailing and more of the mixed collage techniques across separates. We love to keep it interesting and distinct with Sacai in the brand mix. VALENTINO If you’re in need of a fantasy dress, Valentino, with its exquisite workmanship and whimsy, is the label. This season, Pier Paolo Piccioli merged two surprising themes; Victoriana and the Memphis Group. Both diverse, but married expertly; only the way a true artist can. The Victoriana theme provided high-waisted, high-necked house signature dresses whereas the Memphis reference led to candy colours and patterns of hands and numerals. A dress of this nature combined deluxe prints with black and aqua colour blocking on covered up neckline. In other areas, long sleeve V neck dresses which float off the body were completed with neck ties skimming the front. More colour blocking in pleating, frills and those Victorian high buttoned necks appeared in the showroom through evening looks, and beautifully hand loomed knits. Knee-length dresses with swing and volume were shown in several options from print to plain-satin. This could very well be the Valentino dress of the season. Accessories are always high on our list, expect to see more Rockstuds by way of small occasion bags and all over footwear from heels to flats. STELLA MCCARTNEY With models dancing to George Michael’s “Faith” as the finale of the runway show, it is fair to say Stella McCartney brings an element of joy and spirit into her runway shows. Thankfully, Stella continues to indulge us and much is the vibe of the Parisian showroom. Our chosen pieces, (and sure to be yours soon) are illustrations of horses as a motif on soft denim as an ode to Stella’s life time love of horse-riding. It’s also seen on silk-printed shifts, silk pants and long sleeve tops, appealing in their ease and flow Taking this equestrian theme further are embroidered sweaters, plaid jodhpurs, sweaters and capes – and perhaps best exemplified in a military mini-shirt dress with cowl neck. We’ll couple these looks with tortoise print-heeled strap heels. Stella McCartney has always held ethical sustainability close to her heart – a value shared by her famous parents – and one that Parlour X shares seasonally. Her feel-good designs inspire it-girls and rock star girlfriends’ a like, yet she still manages to appeal to those with a refined aesthetic for fuss free luxury. The Stella girl has no interest in being passé, yet forward fashion is all about looking back – and bringing fashion back from the future is something McCartney does oh so well.
AW17 Showrooms - Part 3
May 25, 2017