PROENZA SCHOULER Adopting a model like trailblazing label Vetements, Proenza Schouler designers and style leaders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez headed to Paris instead of their home turf of New York this season. While this caused a little stir in the States, it didn’t impact the collection one bit. Known for their many ideas, this AW17 collection, the duo featured technical knits, layering in primary colours and polished separates in graphic print. A contoured black draped with white button-work was a classic standout, and a perfect fit for any wardrobe, irrespective of season or occasion. Graphic knitwear is refreshing and clean cut, and we found strength within a pleating series of long skirts in burnt orange or black and white. The AW17 delivery of Proenza Schouler will be smart and chic, for the modern woman. ISABEL MARANT As the largest and longest standing stockist in the Southern Hemisphere, Isabel Marant is always a central and hugely important brand for us. This season, the runway oozed the confidence of feeling good in your skin, regardless of age. The show this season served strong and sexy, yet covered up; with the mood of mid-length printed frocks, cinched in with large black belts, leather bolero’s and paired with thigh-high boots. Echoing this attitude through to our showroom appointment, we translated the runway selection through wearable and feminine dresses in romantic prints including a flattering leopard print number. Tweed/boucle combinations jackets, diverse shirting by way of tops and dresses, metallic and embellished separates will please our long-standing Isabel fans. In terms of footwear, of which Isabel Marant has a peerless record of ‘must-haves’, will be new cone heeled boots in black and burgundy coloured leather, embellished boots as well instantly recognisable favourites will make a return. All in all, this season defied age boundaries and focused on the everyday, feminine woman. Topping the Isabel Marant runway and showroom experience? A truly fun and frivolous after-party! We celebrated alongside Isabel Marant, her team and loyal clients with a discothèque party, complete with the biggest disco-ball we ever did see and a lot of dancing! The atmosphere of the night truly summarizes the brand experience; mischievous, effortlessly cool and essentially French. Merci, Isabel! LOEWE JW Anderson presented another highly-acclaimed collection for Loewe this season, many calling it his best collection yet and even a ‘visual feast to inspire endless retail therapy’. Inside the beautifully curated venue of the UNESCO building, guests were seated on concrete and Perspex boxes containing household items; some seats were clear while others, vibrant and colour filled. This aesthetic and style also landed itself to the showroom come time for our buying appointment. Upon entering the Loewe showroom were descending floral arrangements, picture-perfect. As an all-embracing theme, curation was an obsession for JW Anderson. From the jewels to the complete environment, each idea was curated. This is a strong belief and value I have for Parlour X, so I was instantly engrossed. An exceptional knit dress combined with plaid and polka dot, was a marriage of textile and print. Handkerchief hemlines on pinstripe tops, knife-pleated skirts and contrasting shirts and knitwear were sumptuous and divine. Each look was curated and created excitement. The leather goods were another area of strength, we’ll be investing in beautiful new Loewe zip clutches, shoulder bags in contrasting leather and polka dot. Subtle, but relaxed at the same. It’s all in the detail. Can’t wait to see this in The Church. ACNE STUDIOS Creative Director Jonny Johansson was yearning for more innocent times this season, with the artistic reference point derived from Swiss-German artist Paul Klee, who designed homespun finger puppets for his son back in the mid-1910s and 1920s. This theme of simplicity and innocence translated into deconstructed linen dresses and linen knit separates in earth and neutral tones. A feature look available to Parlour X for AW17, will be a dreamy series of floral separates and dresses; a floral silk long sleeve dress plus a matching-fabric t-shirt met by fitted cropped pants with a little flare. In other areas, we saw colliding pinstripes and tartan panel work garments with raw hemlines; Acne Studios has always been known for its experimentation with proportion and silhouette. In the accessories department, the boot offering reigned supreme! Our clients can anticipate their favourite boot styles such as the ‘Jens’ boot in a diverse range of colours and heel heights added to the buyers mix. With an air of playfulness in uncertain times, the AW17 collection had a simplified appeal, just the kind of uplifting feeling we needed. ROSIE ASSOULIN Establishing her namesake label in 2013, Rosie Assoulin fashioned eccentric, whimsy and glamour through ruffled poplin blouses and dramatic evening tops. Rosie created her own hallmark signature, transforming how women around the world approach eveningwear. For AW17, the designer referenced this evocative feeling, but through an interiors reference point, working with textures like cable-knit, plaid, tweed and floral. Shapes play a big role, noteworthy styles include oversize ruffled tops, pretty prints in shell-like shapes. As a new advanced contemporary brand to Parlour X, we explored key pieces to make you feel special by day or night. JW ANDERSON Still a new designer to the Parlour X-fold, JW Anderson is making impact in his approach to not only his namesake label, but also to the luxury house of Loewe. A challenging task for a young designer, however it has become an exciting buy and one we enthusiastically await. This AW17 season, JW Anderson’s offering was sophisticated and put-together, or “Über-feminine” as JW Anderson’s team called it. It was all about one look and idea, clearly inked. While JW Anderson has been experimental on the runway in previous collections, this season felt more focused and confident than ever before. Quality fabric and textile were exposed through draped jersey separates, dropped waist skirts and silver chain-mail embellished tops. I loved the asymmetrical patchwork dresses, styled with high boots (a recurring theme we saw on the runways this AW17 season). The technique was sophisticated and premium, from the looks on the runway to the lust worthy signature Pierce or “JW” logo bags. I’m excited to see the continuous evolution of this brand, and see our Australian clients embrace the talented young designer, moving fast and on the rise. JACQUEMUS Envelope-pushing Simon Porte, the twenty-six-year-old self-taught designer of Jacquemus referenced the sentiment of naivety for the AW17 collection. A protégé of Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçon), Jacquemus is one of the most thought-provoking designers working in French fashion, presenting fresh ideas to the classic ideas of design. Persisting with this vein of childlike innocence (and of course his desire to surprise), the designer issued silhouettes of squares and circles down the runway and into the showroom from pinstripe suits, velvet coats and geometric silhouettes. For Parlour X, in our showroom appointment, it worked best with a polka dot shirt and caped coat paired with cropped, fitted trousers. The Jacquemus range will add an innovative element to your wardrobe, with the discovery of brave, architectural shapes and minimalist details. CHLOE Emotions were high for Clare Waight Keller’s final collection for Chloe, after six years at the helm. Whilst referencing the 1960’s and 1970’s (with icons such as Jane Birkin serving as muse) is ingrained in each collection, this AW17 season, Clare Waight Keller looks forward with smart tailoring. Whilst Clare showed interesting new shapes, our favourites of the runway and later in the showroom were dropped waist pleated trousers and impeccable tailored printed shirts with an interesting contrast lapel. Wearing this shirting back with corresponding pants or skirts is head-to-toe look perfection. Notably, a darling ‘60’s short dresses accessorised by brogues will become a must-have for the Chloé-girls. The handbag edit was precisely what we wanted it to be: quintessential Chloé. We will revisit style champions in warm colours and varying sizes. While it is bittersweet to say goodbye to Clare Waight Keller (with a standing ovation no less); the Chloé-girl mystique will forever be represented through her perennially chic adaptation for AW17, available in-store at Parlour X and through parlourx.com.
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